Most extension damage doesn't happen during styling. It happens in the shower.
The aggressive scrubbing, the piling of hair on top of your head, the scalding hot water—habits that work fine for natural hair can turn premium extensions into a tangled, matted mess within weeks. And once that damage is done, no amount of conditioning will bring them back.
The good news: washing extensions correctly isn't complicated. It just requires unlearning a few instincts.
Your natural hair gets continuous moisture and nutrients from your scalp. Extensions don't. They're cut off from that supply chain the moment they leave the donor's head, which means every wash either preserves or depletes whatever moisture remains in the cuticle.
Remy hair—where all cuticles run in the same direction—holds up remarkably well when treated properly. But even the highest-quality extensions will deteriorate fast under harsh washing conditions. The cuticle layer lifts, moisture escapes, and you're left with hair that feels straw-like and tangles constantly.
Temperature matters more than you'd think. Hot water opens the hair cuticle, which sounds good for cleaning but actually strips away the natural oils and any conditioning treatments you've applied. Lukewarm to cool water keeps that cuticle sealed and smooth.
Detangling before washing prevents the kind of matting that's nearly impossible to reverse.
Start at the ends with a loop brush or wide-tooth comb, working upward in small sections. If you hit a tangle, don't pull through it—hold the hair above the knot and gently work it apart. This is especially critical at your attachment points, where natural shedding can create small knots that turn into large ones when wet.
For tape-ins and hand-tied wefts, pay extra attention to the bonds. Hair naturally sheds 50-100 strands daily, but with extensions, those shed hairs have nowhere to go. They collect at the attachment point and need to be carefully separated before water makes them cement together.
Wet your hair in the shower with the water running down from your scalp toward your ends—the same direction your hair grows. Never flip your head upside down and pile your hair on top of your head. That circular scrubbing motion at the scalp? It tangles extensions instantly.
Use a sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates are the detergents that create that satisfying lather, but they're far too harsh for extension hair. They strip color, dry out the cuticle, and can weaken certain attachment methods over time. A good rule: if it foams aggressively, it's probably too strong.
Apply shampoo to your scalp only. Your scalp is what actually gets dirty—oil, product buildup, environmental debris. The extensions just need the shampoo that rinses through them. Massage your scalp with your fingertips (not nails), keeping your strokes vertical rather than circular.
When rinsing, let the water flow down through your lengths. Resist the urge to scrub or bunch the hair. The rinse-through is enough to clean extension hair without the friction that causes damage.
This is where you can actually improve your extensions with each wash rather than just maintaining them.
Skip conditioner on your scalp and attachment points entirely—it can cause bonds to slip and creates buildup that weighs hair down. Instead, apply conditioner from mid-length to ends only, where extensions need it most.
Leave it on for at least two minutes. Five is better. Some people apply conditioner, clip their hair up, and finish the rest of their shower before rinsing. The longer quality conditioner sits on extension hair, the more moisture it deposits.
Rinse with cool water. This seals the cuticle, locks in moisture, and leaves hair noticeably smoother and shinier. It's uncomfortable for about thirty seconds, but the difference in how your extensions feel and move is worth it.
Wet hair is fragile hair, and extensions are especially vulnerable because they can't repair themselves the way natural hair can.
Squeeze—don't wring—excess water from your lengths. Wringing twists the hair fibers and stretches them when they're at their weakest. A gentle squeeze from top to bottom removes water without damage.
Use a microfiber towel or an old t-shirt instead of a regular terry cloth towel. Terry cloth's looped texture catches on hair cuticles and creates friction that leads to frizz and breakage. Microfiber is smooth enough to absorb water without roughing up the hair surface.
Let your extensions air dry whenever possible. If you must blow dry, use a heat protectant and keep the dryer moving constantly—never holding it in one spot. Direct the airflow downward, following the direction of the cuticle. And unless you're actively styling, use medium heat at most.
Less than you think. Two to three times per week is ideal for most extension wearers. Washing daily strips too much moisture and puts unnecessary stress on attachment points.
If your scalp tends toward oily, dry shampoo at the roots between washes keeps things fresh without wetting the extensions. Focus the dry shampoo at your scalp only and brush it through—it doesn't need to reach your lengths.
Winter 2026's drier indoor air means extensions may need extra conditioning treatments between washes. A leave-in conditioner or lightweight oil on your ends helps combat the brittleness that heating systems create.
The goal is clean hair that still retains enough natural oil to stay soft and manageable. Finding that balance takes a few weeks of paying attention to how your specific hair responds, but once you dial it in, maintenance becomes automatic.
Hair Extensions
Bombshell Extension Co. is a provider of luxury, 100% Remy human hair extensions available to both licensed hairstylists and consumers worldwide.
Parowan, Utah
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